The tiny space in Clifton that recently housed Cocoberry Pops and, prior to that, Reynolds Grocery has a new tenant in Boujie Biscuit. The early returns are not only favorable, they’re pretty delicious.
The place advertises, “Scratch-made comfort food on a handcrafted buttermilk biscuit,” and it delivers.
The restaurant actually started in Franklin, Ind., when owner Cyndi Joyner decided she wanted to introduce people to various types of comfort food. But when her mother fell ill, she was forced to close the original business.
She has since relocated to Louisville and now is up and running again.
The cozy interior features wood floors, a few tables for dining, a couch, food photos along one wall and other random art, along with window seating overlooking Frankfort Avenue.
Boujie Biscuit is clean and inviting, not to mention quirky — the small kitchen area behind the counter is decked out with a standard stove like you’d have in your home, and a rack of pots, pans, mixers and other kitchen essentials sits next to where you place your order.
Joyner herself takes the orders, runs the kitchen and delivers food to customers. I stopped in twice in the last week, and the menu is interesting to say the least, with everything served on a biscuit, sandwich-style — except you’re going to need a fork to eat it. I promise.
Most of it is Southern-influenced — items like the ham and three-cheese biscuit, the maple bacon biscuit and the chicken pot pie biscuit. There are three different burger biscuits, a cheesy tomato biscuit and some fruit-loaded biscuits with ingredients like peaches in brown sugar sauce or almond butter, or sliced bananas and chocolate sauce.
There also are rotating specials, such as a spinach, frittata and tomato biscuit.
During one of my visits, I ordered the cheesy burger biscuit, figuring it might be one I could eat like a sandwich. But when she brought it to me, there was a plastic fork stuck in it, so I knew then I’d not be picking it up.
Sure enough, the huge square biscuit was stuffed with loose, seasoned ground beef and onions, topped with a three-cheese sauce and a couple of pickle slices.
Every biscuit at Boujie is served in a cardboard to-go box, so if you can’t finish it, you can simply fold up the box and go. I also got a side of mac and cheese, which was served in a small Styrofoam cup.
For starters, what Joyner serves are classic country biscuits, fluffy and just the right density, browned on top and bottom — like your grandma probably made. The difference is, my grandma didn’t put beef, cheese or pickles on hers.
As for what was in between the two slices of biscuit, imagine a really good version of Hamburger Helper, without pasta, and served on a biscuit. Talk about comfort food.
It was tasty, and there was plenty of it — I got through maybe two-thirds of the dish before I had to fold up the top. I must admit, I’ve never had a “cheeseburger” quite like that before.
On my return visit, I decided to go for a classic, what is termed the Gravy Train Biscuit at Boujie, which is country gravy on one of those enormous biscuits.
Rather, I should say “in” the biscuit, because it was served sandwich-style, in between the cut-in-half biscuit. In reality, it was just two halves of biscuit swimming in a small pond of country gravy, so I guess it was mostly “around” the biscuit.
It was a home run for my taste buds — thick, peppery gravy with plenty of big chunks of sausage. It might seem odd to pay $9 for a biscuit with gravy, but this thing could probably feed two — I couldn’t finish it, no matter how much I wanted to.
This one really took me back to weekend mornings in my grandmother’s kitchen.
If you go, be sure to chat with the friendly Joyner. Both times she handed me food, she said, “Bon appetit!” She always seems to be ready with a smile, so here’s hoping her endeavor can stick around this time. It’s a welcome addition to the neighborhood.
Boujie Biscuit, located at 1813 Frankfort Ave., is open Wednesday through Friday, 8 a.m.-3 p.m.; Saturday, 9 a.m.-4 p.m.; and Sunday, 10 a.m.-3 p.m. (or until she sells out each day).