I usually have Cheerios for breakfast, covered in skim milk and blueberries. Ever so rarely will I eat anything more filling. But once in a while, it isn’t bad to stretch out a bit.
As a Clifton resident, I figured I may as well try Eggs Over Frankfort, which opened up a few weeks ago just up the street from me in the former site of Fat Jimmy’s Pizza at 2712 Frankfort Ave. (right next to Heine Bros.). My girlfriend Cynthia and I met at the new Crescent Hill eatery before work to check it out and see if we could eat ourselves out of wanting lunch.
Breakfast has become something of a thing recently, with local specialty eateries such as Wild Eggs, Highland Morning, Verbena Cafe and Bread & Breakfast putting fine twists on classic morning-centric fare (with some lunch options as well), so I was expecting something similar from the small eatery opened by restaurant veterans Cortney and Jackson Nave.
But I think what worked so well for me in my visit to Eggs Over Frankfort was the simplicity – it’s a place where you can get asparagus in your omelet if you so choose, but your dad won’t be scared away by the prospect of someone putting arugula on his sausage biscuit.
I sort of found the cozy new place to be somewhere between Wild Eggs and Barbara Lee’s Kitchen. Based on my visit, I’d put the food up against just about anyone’s, for the most part. But there’s a hint of restraint that serves it well.
The dining room has eight small tables and one for larger parties, as well as a comfy six-seat counter. Décor is beautifully simple, with a bench lining one wall, and unfinished wood slats bordering the opposite perimeter. Set against the light blue wall, Cynthia noted, it almost looks like a fence. There’s also a fair amount of outside seating for spring and summer morning enjoyment.
The interior walls are adorned with empty window frames that could have come from a 19th-century Kentucky farmhouse, the dinnerware is mismatched, and the salt and pepper shakers range from turkeys to pigs to miniature teapots, as if the Naves had gone from flea market to yard sale to find just the right sets for the laid-back mood. If so, they accomplished their goal. (The only thing that feels out of place is MSNBC on the flat-screen. “Hee-Haw” reruns, perhaps?)
The menu is succinct with a simple, Southern elegance. There are two signature omelets, one that’s veggie and one that’s multi-meat. The rest is up to you and the build-your-own option that starts at eight bucks. You want bacon, cheddar and tomato only, and it’s all yours. But you can also put together a goat cheese, spinach, avocado version just as easily.
Cynthia and I kept it simple: I went for the “Classic” from the Breakfast basics menu, which was two eggs, meat, one side and a choice of bread. Cynthia kept it even more simple with the biscuits and gravy for just $6.
Cynthia’s plate consisted of just what you think: two huge biscuits “drowned” in thick sausage gravy. Man, this is the kind of stuff that will take you back to grandma’s house. The biscuits were huge and perfectly baked, and the gravy was meaty with a hint of black pepper. I stole more than one bite.
Of course, after she had ordered, she got a look at someone’s stack of buttermilk pancakes and admitted she was having second thoughts. Guessing that will be her breakfast next time we venture there.
My eggs over medium were perfectly cooked, which I find more difficult to come by than it should be. They were just slightly browned on the edges, with the yolks on the verge of solidifying, but with plenty still rich and runny for sopping up with my sourdough toast. (You can also get homemade jams with your bread, but I stuck with butter.)
My bacon was undercooked for my taste, which was my only complaint. I like it a little more crispy, and next time I’ll know to order it that way. But hey, it’s bacon – I still ate it with a smile.
We both had the cheese grits as our sides, and I topped mine with a bit of Tabasco sauce (they also have Sriracha sauce). Boy, you gotta get these if you go.
To top it off, the Naves were great hosts, and that always makes the food taste better. And the most expensive thing on the menu, by far, is the “Everything,” which gives you two eggs, bacon and sausage, a side, bread and a pancake or slice of French toast. All that is still only 10 bucks. Heck, there’s even a kids menu, so feel free to bring the fam.
Yeah, I’ll go back to my regular Cheerios and blueberries for a while, but Eggs Over Frankfort is a worthy addition to Crescent Hill’s restaurant landscape.